With the arrival of warmer days, we were eager to rediscover the laid-back lifestyle of the Netherlands, which had left such a lasting impression on us during our first visit. A few months after our weekend in Amsterdam, we returned to the Netherlands for a trip blending nature and culture. But not just any trip… For a week, we cycled through part of Southern Holland with the aim of discovering the small towns of Gouda, Leiden, and Delft! With over 37,000 kilometers of cycling paths crisscrossing the country, cycling is a true institution in the Netherlands. Throughout the week, we moved from city to city to uncover a new facet of the Netherlands, lesser-known but equally beautiful! Strolling along the canals in Leiden, witnessing the cheese market in the quaint town of Gouda, exploring Delft and its pottery, not to mention all the landscapes we traversed along the way… A week filled with intensity and discoveries that, we hope, will give you ideas for your next trip to the Netherlands (with or without a bike)! Are you ready to join us on this new adventure?
VISITING THE NETHERLANDS BY BIKE, STEP 1: Exploring the “Green Heart” of the Netherlands, from Delft to Gouda (34 km)
After picking up our bikes and route map at our first hotel in Delft, we set off for the first leg of our cycling journey through the heart of the Netherlands. This initial 34 km stage takes us to explore the Green Heart of the Netherlands (Groene Hart in Dutch), a rural and sparsely populated region that contrasts with the surrounding urban areas. Although it may not be the most picturesque part of the route, we traverse summerlovely countryside landscapes with numerous nurseries and vast greenhouses that remind us that summer is indeed here!
Visit Gouda, the Cheese Capital
The first city we discover along the way is Gouda, which happens to be the cheese capital of the Netherlands! Every Thursday morning (from mid-April to mid-September), a grand cheese market is held from 10 a.m. on the central square of Gouda. It’s a grand theatrical spectacle where sellers in period costumes take us back in time and introduce us to the old customs associated with Gouda’s trade. A tradition since 1395 that’s worth a look if you happen to be passing through! If you wish to purchase cheese, you’ll find some stalls nearby at the “real” market held every Thursday, and several cheese shops in the small streets of Gouda, including the one on Lange Groenendaal street, which is well worth a visit! Still in the same theme, we recommend visiting the Gouda Cheese Experience. It’s an interactive museum that allows you to understand everything about Gouda cheese, from its production to its marketing (with a little tasting included). A must-visit in our opinion!
While Gouda is primarily known for its famous cheese and the folklore surrounding it, it’s a charming little town that also holds some pleasant surprises! A stroll through Gouda’s historic center is a must for us to discover all its secrets! To start, the Market Square is worth a visit, with its monumental town hall. It’s a good starting point for wandering through the surrounding streets. Lange Groenendaal is the first fair trade street in the Netherlands. You’ll find lovely shops and some artisans there. Then, explore some of Gouda’s canals before visiting Saint John’s Church known for its stained glass windows, and the Gouda Museum, which is just opposite. Craving something sweet after all that cheese? Don’t leave without buying some caramel syrup waffles at Kamphuisen Siroopwafel, another delicious specialty of the city of Gouda, whose recipe has been secret since 1810!
CYCLING IN THE NETHERLANDS, STAGE 2: Along the Waterways, from Gouda to Leiden (45 km)
For this second cycling stage, we leave Gouda to reach Leiden. A 45 km journey along the waterways that we absolutely loved! The first part of the route takes us through the Reeuwijkse Plassen, a set of 13 lakes separated from each other by small paths. There’s water on either side of the road as we pedal, reminding us of the significant role water plays in the landscape of the Netherlands. Over the kilometers, we pass through polders and rivers, occasionally near old mills or small cheese factories. The last few kilometers before reaching Leiden are the most beautiful of the route, along the Old Rhine (Oude Rijn in Dutch). A beautiful introduction before visiting Leiden, which happens to be the city with the most canals in the Netherlands after Amsterdam!
Visiting Leiden, the Small “Amsterdam” of Southern Holland
Among the three cities we visited during our cycling trip, Leiden (or Leyden in French) is our favorite! Did you know, for example, that Leiden is the city in the Netherlands with the most canals after Amsterdam? Or that it’s the birthplace of the famous Rembrandt? From the moment we arrived, we were charmed by its canals, its cobblestone streets, and its cheerful atmosphere. For us, Leiden is like a small-scale, more intimate Amsterdam, quieter and serene. Beyond its charming canals, Leiden is also a lively university town, with great spots, poems written on walls, and a sublime botanical garden!
Visit Keukenhof Flower Park
If you’re visiting in spring, don’t miss the opportunity to explore Keukenhof Flower Park, a must-visit destination in the region during tulip season! Just 20 minutes by car from Leiden (allow about an hour by bike), Keukenhof is a unique park in the world with millions of tulips in bloom each year. From the moment you step into the park, all your senses come alive; it’s a true explosion of scents and colors! In total, 7 million bulbs are planted in the park every year. There are nearly 800 varieties of tulips, as well as other flowers like hyacinths, daffodils, orchids, roses… and many more!
CYCLING IN THE NETHERLANDS, STAGE 3: Along the Waterways, from Leiden to Delft (29 km)
Our route forms a loop through South Holland. For the final stage of our cycling trip in the Netherlands, we leave Leiden and the tulip fields behind to return to our starting point and visit the charming town of Delft. It’s a lovely stage along the water, where we cycle along canals and waterways throughout the journey.
Visiting Delft and its Delftware
For the last part of our trip in the Netherlands, we’re back in Delft, a beautiful town located just 15 km from Rotterdam. So, what to do in Delft? Even though it’s a small town, Delft’s historic center is worth exploring. Start by discovering the central square Markplein, with its town hall and Nieuwe Kerk church. There are plenty of great places around the square to sit on a terrace. If you’re feeling peckish, take a break at Wafels en Zoenen for a snack with one of their delicious waffles! A short walk away is the Vermeer Centrum Delft, a museum dedicated to the painter Johannes Vermeer, who was born in Delft and became famous for his works “The Milkmaid” and “Girl with a Pearl Earring”. The visit is very interesting to discover the universe of this world-famous painter! Then, explore the surrounding streets, its many canals, pedestrian streets, and small shops. If you’re interested in the history of the Netherlands, don’t miss the Museum Prinsenhof, which presents the history of Prince William of Orange and the creation of the Dutch Republic.
Delft is also known for its hand-painted blue Delftware, inspired by Chinese porcelain. To discover this ancestral craftsmanship, we recommend visiting the Royal Delft Museum, which takes you into the world of Delft Blue through an exciting exhibition and a tour of the workshop, still in operation today.
And that concludes our cycling trip in South Holland. For a week, we explored the Netherlands at our own pace and visited stunning cities, some of which we had never heard of before, yet they are definitely worth a visit. A wonderful cycling experience that we highly recommend for discovering the Netherlands in a different way! Do you want to visit the Netherlands by bike and have questions?
